Technical guide

Chemical treatment of your pool's water: a complete guide

Why the water needs to be disinfected, what those strong-smelling "chloramines" really are, and how to solve the most common problems: cloudy water, green water, stains or scale.

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Pool water is never "still": wind, rain, sun and, above all, bathers gradually contaminate it. That's why it needs two types of treatment working together: a physical one (filtration) and a chemical one, which is what this guide is about.

Why is chemical treatment necessary?

Anyone who swims introduces sweat, skin flakes, creams and, to a lesser extent, urine into the water. All of that, together with what the air and surroundings bring in, can turn an untreated pool into a breeding ground for bacteria, fungi and viruses. Properly treated water has to guarantee four things: no microorganisms capable of making anyone ill, no toxic substances, no bad smell or taste, and a clean, clear appearance.

The microorganisms that can appear in a poorly maintained pool range from fungi that cause athlete's foot to bacteria that cause ear infections, conjunctivitis or gastroenteritis. That's the underlying reason pool sanitary regulations exist.

The 4 stages of chemical treatment

  • pH regulation: the foundation for everything else; if the pH is out of range, every other product loses effectiveness.
  • Disinfection: usually with chlorine, though bromine, active oxygen, ozone and UV systems also exist.
  • Algae prevention: with a maintenance algicide, so you're not relying on chlorine alone.
  • Flocculation: groups the finest suspended particles together so the filter can trap them.

The water's full journey

Water leaves the pool through the skimmer, passes through the pump and filter that trap dirt, gets its pH adjustment and chlorine dose, and returns to the pool already treated, a continuous cycle, not a one-off treatment.

Chlorine disinfection: the types available

Chlorine is still the most widely used disinfectant thanks to its good price and effectiveness as an oxidizer. It comes in two forms:

TypeExamplesForm
Inorganic chlorines (unstabilized)Chlorine gas, sodium hypochlorite, calcium hypochloriteGas, liquid or solid
Organic chlorines (stabilized)Trichloroisocyanuric acid (trichlor), sodium dichloroisocyanurate (dichlor)Solid (granules or tablets)

An important nuance that causes confusion: a product's "active ingredient" (the percentage of disinfectant it contains) is not the same as its "available chlorine" (the actual disinfecting power compared to pure chlorine gas). For example, a dichlor product with 99% active ingredient may have only 55% actual available chlorine.

Free, combined and total chlorine: why a badly treated pool smells so much

Here's the key fact almost nobody knows: the "pool smell" isn't caused by chlorine, it's caused by a lack of chlorine. Specifically:

  • Free chlorine: the chlorine that's actually available to disinfect.
  • Combined chlorine (chloramines): forms when free chlorine reacts with the ammonia and nitrogen compounds that bathers bring in (sweat, urine, creams). This is what irritates eyes, dries out skin and causes that typical strong smell, and it barely disinfects at all.
  • Total chlorine: the sum of the two above.

When combined chlorine builds up, the solution isn't to "add less chlorine", it's the opposite: a shock chlorination (also called a "break point"), which involves adding a large dose of chlorine all at once that's able to chemically break down the chloramines and release them as harmless nitrogen gas.

Rule of thumb for shock chlorination: the amount of chlorine needed (in ppm) is roughly 10 times the measured combined chlorine. For example, in a 75 m³ pool with 1.5 ppm of combined chlorine, you'd need around 2 kg of granulated dichlor to do the "break point" correctly. The technician adjusts the exact dose depending on the product and its actual available chlorine.

Water balance: much more than just pH

"Balanced" water depends on five factors that are studied together, not separately:

FactorWhat it indicates
pHRecommended between 7.2 and 7.6 (regulations allow 7.2 to 8.0): bather comfort, protection of the installation and maximum chlorine effectiveness.
Total alkalinityActs as a pH "buffer"; with good alkalinity, pH doesn't swing sharply.
Calcium hardnessAmount of dissolved calcium; too low corrodes fittings, too high causes scale buildup.
Total dissolved solids (TDS)Everything that would remain if the water evaporated; rises over time and is reduced by draining some water or backwashing the filter more.
Langelier IndexCombines the four factors above plus temperature to determine whether the water tends to be corrosive or scale-forming.

When the Langelier Index comes out below zero, the water tends to be aggressive toward pipes, ladders and other metal fittings. Above zero, it tends to form limescale. The ideal is to stay close to zero (± 0.5 is considered a good margin).

Most common problems and their solution

ProblemUsual causeWhat to do
Cloudy water Poor filtration, high pH or excess organic matter Backwash the filter, adjust pH to 7.2-7.6 and reinforce with a flocculant
Green water Algae growth Shock chlorination, shock algicide and pH adjustment
Brown water Dissolved iron or manganese Adjust the pH, chlorinate and use a flocculant to precipitate the metal
Stains on the walls Metal ions (copper, iron, manganese) Drain and clean with a surface descaler; add a metal sequestrant
Scale / whitish water Precipitation of calcium salts Adjust hardness and alkalinity, keep the pH stable and use a scale inhibitor
Corrosion of ladders and pipework Low pH, high TDS or high temperature Rebalance the water and make sure TDS doesn't exceed 2,000 ppm
Foam on the water Excess quaternary ammonium algicides, sunscreen or very low hardness Check calcium hardness and use a dedicated defoamer
Bad smells Excess chloramines (the most common cause) or sulfides in the fill water Shock chlorination to break down chloramines, or super-chlorinate to oxidize the sulfide
Eye and skin irritation Unbalanced pH and chloramines, almost never "too much chlorine" Adjust the pH and run a shock chlorination if combined chlorine is high
General tip: any shock treatment (chlorine, algicide, descaler...) should always be done with no bathers in the water, and swimming shouldn't be allowed again until the parameters are back within their normal range.

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Frequently asked questions

It's the opposite: that smell usually indicates chloramines (combined chlorine), meaning a lack of available free chlorine. The solution isn't to reduce chlorine, but to do a shock chlorination to eliminate them.
Yes. A salt chlorinator automates chlorine generation, but pH, alkalinity and calcium hardness still need to be controlled just the same. More details in our guide on salt chlorination.
Yes, with over-the-counter products, but calculating the exact dose based on the measured combined chlorine, the real volume and your product's actual available chlorine is where most mistakes happen. Too much or too little won't solve the problem and can damage linings or equipment.
Routine chlorine keeps the water disinfected, but it doesn't always prevent algae well if the pH is unbalanced or if a dedicated maintenance algicide isn't used alongside the chlorine.

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